Edinburgh, City of Festivals

Just a few weeks from now I'll be chugging out of Kings Cross on my way to the biggest arts extravaganza in the world. The summer months see Edinburgh transformed into a City of Festivals, a sort of cultural marathon, a veritable endurance contest for the thousands of tourists, students, reviewers and journalists. Competition is fierce; accommodation, affordable transport, decent tickets and elbow room are in limited supply. Of course all of this does little to dissuade the flocks of culture vultures.

For me "the Festival" has always been something of a mystery, a confusing, messy, explosion of art, plays, music, dance, street entertainment and book readings.  Probably important, then, that I get to the bottom of this before I actually pitch up in the city. What exactly is it all about? What is the essence of the Edinburgh Festivals? It turns out Edinburgh actually hosts ten summer festivals running right through from the children's theatre festival, Imaginate, beginning in May and ending with the International Story-telling Festival in October. There's the International Film Festival in June and the Jazz and Blues in July, while August is crammed with the  Art Festival, the Tattoo, the Fringe, the International Festival and the Book Festival. Five in one month!

So where did all this cultural excess begin?  Well the first Festival was held in 1947, hot on the heels of the close of the Second World War. There were hopes it would envigorate Scotland's cultural scene and provide somewhere for culture to blossom after the dull and heavy years of war. In those days there were just two, the International Festival and the Fringe. The Fringe actually came about as a result of eight theatre companies who turned up uninvited to the main festival, intending to take advantage of the big crowds the main event would draw, and to offer them an alternative range of performances. The spirit of openness and variety of performances that we see today has clear roots in these early days. An important part of "the Festival" is the productions put on by the smaller, less-established theatre companies and those created by so-called amateur groups. Encouraging new theatre makers through the Edinburgh Festival Fringe is essential, and its obvious that this is a result of the bold initiative of those original eight "Fringe" companies. Many writers and productions started out at the Fringe; 1966 saw the first full length performance of Stoppard's Rosencrantz and Guildenstern Are Dead, while comedians Rory Bremner and Steve Coogan were both "discovered" performing in Edinburgh.

So what will 2011 hold for festival-goers? There's the usual hype, of course, with various publications putting out listings of "must-see" events. It's not hard to see why you would simply choose from one of these. The sheer number of events to trawl through is staggering. The Fringe alone boasts over two thousand shows. In the end what you choose will inevitably be something of a lucky dip, whether it be Shakespeare, ancient Greek plays, modern dance or classical music. But in the end that in itself is part of the experience. It should be unpredictable, sometimes wonderful, sometimes less impressive. The Festivals are a reflection of human nature, that abstract quality that we can never quite pin down. Art is about what it is to be human; it can be brilliant, but it can also be dull. I'm not going to make suggestions about what you should see, I'm finding it hard enough to decide myself. My advice is just use your instinct. Pick things you like the sound of. It might be the next big thing, or it might not. But it will still be an experience you won't easily forget.